Christopher Colombus (born in 1451 in Genoa, Italy, under his native Ligurian name Cristoforo Colombo) has sailed during his childhood along Portofino before leaving the country to discover America. Nowadays Genoa is one of the most industrial Mediterranean harbour while the most luxurious yachts and cruises drop their anchor before Portofino, pearl of Italy’s best art de vivre. Monks are known for settling in superb natural sites. They discovered in the 1200 that Portofino on the Ligurian coast was one of those special places where to pray God in an harmonious environment. The almost closed bay is a dead end nestled like a jewel in a creek surrounded by steep green hills where the monks built their monastery. But it has been so frequently attacked by Saracen pirates that the monks abandoned it to the sheep that roamed the coastal hills. Till the XIXth century, when Baron Baratta revived the wreck into a family summer house and, in 1901, Ruggero Valentini, pioneer of tourism, transformed Villa Baratta into the Hotel Splendido renovated by Orient-Express Hotels in 1985. But since its opening the Splendido has played host to the most famous families in Europe and to the international jet-set.
What to see
At the Splendido, one can spend hours in a rocking chair watching the bay, the sea, the boats and seagulls, the old castle, the gardens, the flowers… a living painting... Beneath the hotel, the gardens run down the slopes to the sea: bushes of lavender and wild herbs grow thickly under old olive trees and tangles of bougainvillaea obscure the paths and overhang secluded garden benches. First visit to pay outside is to the old Portofino fisher village which has been fortunately protected from the voracities of the modern developers. Go shopping through the old streets, have a look at the church dedicated to dead seamen and stroll along the waterfront. But the best place is at the “Chuflay” right on the Piazzetta, where to take a drink stretching the day, observing the strolling crowds and spotting, may be, a famous face. The adventurous can climb the Monte” to enjoy the view point from the old fort and see pictures of the celebrities visiting Portofino (more than the Cannes Film Festival!). They may also reach San Fruttuoso abbey defended by the Doria tower against pirate raids. Today, the abbey, cloister and church (reachable only by sea or on foot) form a monumental complex of exceptional value, restored and protected by Findo per l’Ambiente Italiano. The picturesque road to Rapallo going alongside the bay and its numerous yachts is the only way to reach the entry of the highway Genoa-Roma where stands the Rapallo course for those who would like to play a round of golf.
Where to stay
In 1952, the Duke of Windsor was the first person to sign, next to that of Wallis, his wife, the visitors’ book at the Hotel Splendido in Portofino. They were the first in a long list of illustrious worldwide visitors. The former monastery has changed. Rebuilt on an east-west axis following the contour of the hill, all principal windows have sea view as well as sun all day long. To offer its guests the highest standards of international hotel-keeping in a relaxed, comfortable and informal atmosphere, all rooms have been completely redecorated and refurbished. The Indoor Restaurant and the Piano Bar have been e-positioned and decorated in a ligurian-mediterranean design. Both border the terrace with the beautiful view over the bay. Today the Splendido still has a patrician air. The principal reception rooms are furnished with old looking glasses, gilt console tables and Persian rug. The dining room serves food based on local, even peasant, tradition - fresh fish, home made pasta and lots of local aromatic herbs. Splendido Mare is located on the village water-front in the preexistent buildings inhabited by the indigenous Ligurians fishermen. The view is best enjoyed from the large “Terrazza” on the absolute top of the hotel with cold drinks at sunset. There sits also the famous “Chuflay Bar” right on the Piazzetta, where breakfast, brunch, dinner (very fine fresh seafood cuisine with the famous “pesto” - basil). In between, drinks, tea or an Italian “ristretto” can be sipped quietly before the waterfront where no car, neither motorbike is admitted to cross. Just fishermen! And tourists waiting on line on the wooden wharf waiting for boarding. Good riddance! René Bourone
How to go there
Portofino is at 25 km south-west from Genoa by A12 motorway and exit at Rapallo or by sea at one hour from Genoa.
Genoa airport. Airlines: Alitalia www.alitalia.it
Skyteam group www.skyteam.com
Where to stay
Splendido Mare
Via Roma, 2 - 16034 Portofino (GE), Italy
tel 39 0185 267802 - fax 39 0185 267807
reservations@splendido.net
Where to play
Rapallo Golf Club
Via G. Mameli, 377 - 16035 Rapallo (GE), Italia
tel 39 0185 261777 - fax 39 0185 261779
 
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