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SCOTLAND | |
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In the heart of Scotland: the Highlands In Harry Potter’s train | |
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Scotland is home of golf and Saint Andrews its Mecca. But do you known that the first golf course did not have 18 holes, but only 12 which were then extended to 22? Actually, if the golf courses today have 18 holes, it is by chance, and not because of a rule which exists neither in the Tables of the Law of Royal and Ancient, nor elsewhere. Such are the links of the Highlands on open spaces along the wild coast. It is also a country of stories and legends such as the Giants of the Stone Age generated by the basalt columns of Kilt Rock on the Isle of Skye or Nessie, the Loch Ness monster. Today, thousands of “muggles” (non-wizards), on the steps of the sorcerer’s apprentice Harry Potter, take the glowing steam train towards the Poudlard School straight out of a fairyland. In our world of non-wizards, King’ S Cross Station is the Fort William train station and the train does not go to Hogwarts but to Mallaigh, departure of the ferry towards the Isle of Skye. Lastly, in “muggle” language Hogwarts Express is called “Jacobite” which refers to the catholic and protestant history of Scotland, England, France and Europe from 1688 to our days. 300 years of a sad Jacobite history Derived from the Latin Jacobus (Jacques in French and James in English), Jacobite was the name of the party which, after the revolution of 1688, continued to support the Stuart dynasty in its official capacity as representative of divine right after the deposition by the English of Jacques VII to the profit of Guillaume III of Orange. This one certainly had become king of England, but remained a close relative of the Princess Anne of Denmark and of the Great Elector George I of Hanover. Louis XIV thus helped Jacobites as Catholics whereas the Whigs were Protestant under the authority of the English monarchy. The Protestant zealots regarded the Roman Church as Satan’s agent. This history is not a fairytale, but a sad religious war for accession to the new throne of the United Kingdom. It took place in Culloden where thousands of brave men who came from the main Scottish clans were impaled by the bayonets of the British army and were buried where they died to defend the Pretender, the Good Prince Charles. It is said that their blood stained forever the tall grass of the battle field. On the plateau between Inverness and Nairn, the dreary Culloden plain is open to all winds such as it was in 1745. It is particularly moving to see the family lines wearing the same tartan clan kilt, from the totally bleached-out to the newest one, cut their path through the tall grass to find the tombstones where they pray their ancestors while a bagpipe plays “Scot wha hae”, an old Scottish anthem. What dignity!Jacobite, Harry Potter’s train Harry Potter’s movies were shot partly on the course of the Jacobite train. The scene of the “Hogwarts Express” on the viaduct with the 31 arches was filmed in Glenfinnan, some 20 kms from Fort William. From the train one enjoys a very beautiful view on Loch Shiel. It is there that the Good Prince Charles planted his banner in 1745 in the center of the bay where the Glenfinnan Memorial, a 20m high column erected in 1815, commemorates this historical event. Described like one of the most beautiful railway, the Jacobite Train takes the travelers along the length of a list of extreme points in the United Kingdom. It leaves from the foot of the highest mountain (Ben Nevis), slows down close to the end of Moss to pass on the Caledonian Channel close to the Neptune locks (the longest lock system in Europe). It visits the most Western continental station (Arisaig), goes close to the deepest fresh water lake (Loch Morar) and the shortest river (River Morar) to arrive close to the deepest sea water loch in Europe (Loch Nevis). The “Jacobite” is the natural video to discover the Highlands with their torrents and cascades rolling between valleys and hills, their landscapes wearing camouflage to the multiple greens from lightest to darkest and their thousands of white sheep. Students in kilt play the bagpipe at the train stations and with clear weather, from Arisaig one can see the small islands of Rum, Eigg, Muck, Canna and the southern point of Skye. From there the train goes through Morar and the silver beaches where the movies “Highlander” and “Local Hero” were shot. The strong oceanic winds push the waves towards the rocky coast where they burst invading the immense beaches with a broad band of white foam and splash the golf players whose balls venture too close to the shore on the links of Arisaig. At its end, Mallaigh, a fishing harbor, is the access point towards the Isle of Skye by ferry. Before leaving, one can taste a flavorful fisherman’s soup with the catch of the day. The train leaves at 10:20 AM and returns at 4.00 PM to Fort William. One hour and a half stop in Mallaigh. It runs from the end of May to mid-October. – Advance reservations are recommended especially in first class where coffee and snacks are served on the old tables. Careful while leaning out of the windows not to catch an ash; it is a steam train and… coal provides its power. Where to play? On the Jacobite course: • in Arisaig, the Thraigh Golf Club, English continental golf course the more to the west. Thraigh (pronounce traï) means beach and the landscape is made of white sand beaches and small rocky islands with in background, the islands of Eigg, Rum and the Cuillins hills of in the Isle of Skye. It has been played since 1900, but the course was redesigned in 1994. A newspaper once wrote that it was undoubtedly the 9-holes the most nicely located in the world. Yes, but, Oh my god, how much wind and spray! • in Fort William, the Fort William Golf Club is a rugged 18 holes course located on the slopes of Ben Nevis, the highest mountain. It goes up and down with views on Fort William and the locks of Neptune. The Isle of Skye is very popular with golf players. • Isle of Skye Golf Club, established in Sconser in the center of the island on the A87, halfway between Portree and the bridge of Skye. Course along the edge of the sea with views on the island of Rassay and the north of Skye. 9 holes with 15 starting tees to make an 18-holes course. Ideal design for golf players of all ages and handicaps. • Skeabost, 9-holes course property of the Skeabost Country House Hotel, private property at the edge of Loch Snizort. An ideal base to explore the surroundings. Inverness is the capital of the Highlands with an international airport. In the neighborhood, some of the most famous links: • Royal Dornoch Golf Club, 45 kms to the north, superb 18-holes links on the edge of the gulf of Moray. Its history goes back to 1716, but the design is due to Tom Morris in 1877. Improved with the passing of years, this course is classified among the 15 best in the world. • Nairn, to the east of Inverness, on the gulf of Moray, two championship links dispute a reputation of great competitions: Nairn Golf Club goes back to 1887 and Nairn Dunbar Golf Club goes back to 1899. What to see? The Isle of Skye described by Walter Scott in the “Lady of the Lake”. Country rich in colors: brown red of the tops covered of heather, greens of the valleys, white of the moors and foam on the black rocks and thousands of sheep. When heavy clouds cover the summits and marine winds blow waves of drizzle on the small valleys hiding the rare granite farms, the landscape becomes inhospitable and one understands why the legends of hero and mythical warriors are born there and develop. Going around the Isle of Skye, even on its one way road, is recommended, whatever the weather, for its spectacular views. To the west of Skye, on the bank of Harport in Cabost with views on the splendid Cuillins hills, the visit of Talisker, the only distillery in the island, is worth it, to taste its famous smoked whiskeys. The Loch Ness is one of the Scottish strongest tourist symbols and its monster Nessie is a universally known star even if its existence could never be proven. Every day, buses and cruises, combined or not, lead the tourists to the sanctuaries of Nessie and to the ruins of the Urqhart castle, a large Glen fortress, abandoned in 1692 by its 300 Highlanders when the last Stuart, Jacques II, was exiled. Where to stay? Portree (Isle of Skye): Bosville Hotel over the Portree harbor, a charming 4 stars “without stress”. At the Chandlery restaurant, the chef John Kelly has a very good reputation. Catch of the day, venison and fresh meats, season vegetables and fruits are transformed into tasty Scottish dishes crossbred with French cuisine. Tasting the Skye salad “surf and turf” and the roasted organic salmon filet! What a delight! Inverness: Royal Highland Hotel, street Academy, in the city center. Refurnished, it is a marriage between historical majesty and touches of new hospitality. Food: the traditional Scottish cuisine relies on local products such as carrots, potatoes, turnips, oat, barley, sheep and fish (haddock) but also on the famous haggis. The visitors can also taste products of very high quality: Angus beef or local venison prepared by young imaginative chefs trained by great names. The local breakfast includes: sausage, bacon, egg, black pudding and tomato, with toast, fruit juice and jam. Dining in Inverness at The Mustard Seed, voted “best restaurant 2001/2002 in Inverness and Highlands” - 16 Fraser Street, IV1 1DW, tel: 01463220220
Scotland Tourist office Jacobite TrainReservation by phone +44 (0) 1524 737751 or 737753
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--- Leading money winners on the 2008 European Tour --- Padraig Harrington will be make a short film... --- Eagle and birdies at Royal Mougins Golf&Resort |
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