The mysteries of Egypt and the magic of the Nile, on board a Dahabieh, this old sailing ship of the XIXth century used by the pashas, entirely renovated, is what is offered by "Fleuves du monde" (Rivers of the World), one of the variations of the tour operator "Terre Voyages". An intimate and luxurious cruise along the water and along history which allures through quietness, serenity and the service offered on board Lazuli I and II. These boats, with a double lateen sail, were entirely renovated by Wali Aziz, a dynamic Egyptian who had the idea of developing these original cruises. His two Dahabieh have four cabins and two suites, with air-conditioning and very comfortable, for a maximum of 12 persons on board. Navigation is through sailing and when the wind is not cooperating, a tug boat takes over to avoid the nuisance of an on-board engine.

Travel plan

Louxor and Karnak

Departing from Paris, after 5 hours in flight, the first contact with Egypt is with the Louxor airport. Wali, the owner of the sail ships deals with all the formalities, before leading the travelers to the Sheraton hotel for a first night of pleasure. The rooms are very comfortable and, from the terrace, the view on the Nile is splendid. The meal, under an immense Egyptian tent, is the occasion to taste the first flavors of the Orient. The next day, the discovery of the treasures of ancient Egypt begins with the visit of the Karnak temple, one of the wonders of Egypt. A vast complex of 1.5 km by 700 m wide, entirely dedicated to god Amon and built for the most part under the New Empire (1570-1070 B.C.). 15 m thick walls, the alley of the sphinx and especially the large hypostyle room with 134 gigantic columns would surely impress the visitor.

Boarding in Esna

Then, in the minibus, in a convoy protected by soldiers, you go to Esna, home port of the Lazuli. Before getting onboard, visit of Khnoum temple, the ram-god. Dating from the Greco-Roman period, this building is well preserved. On the walls as on the ceiling, the frescos kept all their colors.

Upon arrival on Lazuli II, the six crew members greet the cruise passengers: a rose-water scented wet towel to get refreshed as well as glass of cool karkadé (hibiscus flower tea). Deck in teak, luxurious cabins, decorated with sobriety but with much taste, white and wood in harmony, this boat is a haven of peace. Time to set sail on the Nile... Shades of green with the desert in the background, this river seems to defy time. You meet fishermen tracking the famous yellow perch, Sandals loaded with sugarcane or stones, while on the banks children enjoy bathing. The first meal taken on board is heralding the gastronomical delights that you will taste throughout the voyage: varied sweeten-salted salads, beef or sheep or chicken tagines, skewers, kebab and even "méchoui" (lamb barbecue) on a beach, yellow perch of the Nile, fresh fruits and oriental pastries... The remainder of the afternoon is spent on board. Refreshing nap in the coolness of the cabins, relaxation on the lounge chairs on the deck or lying down on pillows, oriental way, under the shade of the fabric, to enjoy the landscape. A reading time in the living room library can also be well appreciated.

Magic moments

With night fall, the banks of the Nile get illuminated and you can hear the call of the Muezzin, the songs and the prayers escaping from the mosques. The moment is magic. The aperitif on the deck can be assorted with fresh fruits salads, even alcoholic upon request. During the night, the sail ship is moored on the bank, in the middle of nature. The following day, after a dream breakfast, the group disembarks in a small village where a score of children, with big smiles on their face and in the eyes, make big friendly gestures, while the women are preparing the bread of the sun. An excursion on foot leads to the thousand-year-old city of El Kab, with visit of a temple where the local aristocracy was buried, who reconstituted their everyday life on superb frescos. A detour in shared taxi to the desert also makes it possible to see the Setaou tomb.

Souks and villages

After re-boarding, Lazuli II sails in direction of Edfou, a town of 150,000 inhabitants that you cross in a horse-drawn carriage. The temple of Edfou, was built in 237 B.C. (Roman time), to the glory of the falcon god Horus. It is the largest temple in Egypt after Karnark, but especially the most well preserved because it was for a very long time hidden under the sand. After the visit, stop in a popular market not too much frequented by tourists. The perfume of the fresh fruits and spices is almost exhilarating. The contact with the merchants is very congenial.

If you are French you are affectionately called Zidane or Barthez (two famous French soccer players), Chirac or Bernadette (the French president and his wife)... The next day is marked by long hours of navigation that you spend relaxing and by the visit of the village of Ramadi. The Egyptians who live here do not often see tourists and it is thus very pleasant to have a direct contact that is not dictated by commercial considerations. The reproductions of the voyage to Mecca, painted on the façades of the houses are worth a photograph, just as the distribution of the bread in the collective bakery. The return is done on foot, through the plantations of banana trees, sugarcane and karkadé.

Horemheb and the desert

Sailing up to the temple of Horemheb, dug in quarries overhanging the Nile. The temple and the hill are illuminated; you really have the impression to be alone in the world. Grandiose! Egyptian dances and songs, interpreted by the crew, put rhythm to the evening. It is also possible to smoke Chicha (water pipe), on the beach around a campfire. The next day is devoted to a visit of the quarries where the stone blocks were extracted to build the temples of all Egypt and to one unforgettable march in the desert. The continuation of the cruise will bring the visitors in the very beautiful Nubian village of Koubaniya, marked by an architecture more African than oriental, and the Kom Ombo temple (Roman time), where tourist crowds are found again. It is the only double temple of Egypt, the only one also that can be visited by night.

Doors to Africa

The last day marks the arrival in Assouan, a mythical city which opens the doors to Africa. The visit of the souk is unavoidable, just as the temple of Philae, baptized the pearl of the Nile by the writer Pierre Loti. Submerged by the construction of lake Nasser, this temple was saved and moved stone by stone in 1972 by UNESCO, at a cost of 30 million Dollars. This temple was dedicated to the worship of Isis until its transformation into a church in the XIth century of our era. The last Egyptian priests were massacred there by a special squadron sent by the emperor Justinien in 550 A.D. One of these priests had time to engrave on a low-relief: "help, they are coming"! It was the death certificate of Egyptian civilization. From Aswan, the return to Louxor is made by road, with the last night in the Sheraton or Sofitel, to once more cherish Egyptian dreams, before returning to Paris.

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