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Three chefs from Côte d’Azur Christian Sinicropi,Bruno Oger and François Raimbault, are offering a menu rich in colour, further enhanced by a selection of the Coteaux Varois wines bearing the Rémy Rambure-Lambert label. Aesthetic qualities are in harmony with excellence. The taste buds will bloom as they come in contact with subtle hints. First there’s the element of surprise, and then sheer pleasure. This is certainly a unique opportunity to sample three tables that rank among the best that the Côte d’Azur has to offer. Rémy Rambure-Lambert, wine steward at L’Abbaye de la Selle (Alain Ducasse wine company), has set up a selection of Varois wines in adequate supplies with the menu. For the entrée, he recommends a Château La Cumière, AOC Coteaux varois en Provence, vintage white 2005. Its fresh taste admirably blends in with the unctuous texture of the dish by its multiple flavours. The fullness and the supple Château Duvivier, L’Amandier, AOC Coteaux varois en Provence, vintage white 2003, caresses the lobster’s delicate flesh. Its spicy taste brings the coral béarnaise sauce to light in the entrée. Subtle and balanced in sweetness and acidity, the Château Miraval, L’Or, Vins de Pays du Var, 2002, combine texture and the fruity flavour of the Tutti Frutti. This harmony leads to higher gastronomic ideals. Laetitia Rossi
La main tendue: cucumbers in cream caramel acidulated with minted caviar grains (Recipes for four people) Cucumbers in caramel cream: 150 g milk, 3 eggs, 2 g sugar, 80 g pulp of cucumbers, 5 cl white wine, salt. Garnish: 1 lemon, citron, 8 basil leaves, 40 cl diluted old wine vinegar, 2 cucumbers, olive oil, salt. Condiment: 1 hard-boiled egg, 1 tablespoon of crushed capers, 2 mint leaves, and 2 crushed basil leaves. 50 g caviar. Virgin sauce: 80 g soya milk, 20 g cucumber puree, lemon, 10 g coriander leaves, olive oil, 8 g balsamic vinegar, Camargue salt. Under Main Tendue, the chef will concoct cucumber in caramel custard acidulated with grains of minted caviar. First, have a taste of the milk, eggs, sugar, cucumber puree, white wine and salt –ingredients that make up the cucumber in caramel custard. Fill four ramekin cups, set them on the double boiler for fifteen minutes, and leave them in a cool, fresh temperature. Next, make the cucumber – this will be used as garnish to be prepared into a puree with 12 cl of olive oil. Cut a second cucumber length-wise. Scoop out the seeds, season with oil, lemon and salt. Separate the yolk from the white of a hard boiled egg, and mash with a fork. Set aside a teaspoon of crushed capers, mint and basil leaves and some caviar. The virgin sauce is made of soya milk, cucumber puree, raw lemon, coriander leaves, olive oil, balsamic vinegar and Camargue salt. Dilute the milk with the cucumber puree before adding the rest of the ingredients. The presentation of the meal involves meticulous care, hence its name: By using a stencil, spread the cucumber puree on a flat plate, add the cylindrical-cut cucumber stuffed with condiments and top it with caviar quenelles. Take the caramel custard and spread a fine layer of old wine vinegar. Season with a pinch of Camargue salt, olive oil, and the juice from the lemon. Put the virgin sauce on a sauceboat The finished product should be as delicious as it looks aesthetically.
Breton lobster braised in juice, fork-mashed new potatoes, béarnaise coral sauce Ingredients: 4 Breton lobsters, 600 g, 3 cl olive oil. For the shellfish juice: 5 cl virgin olive oil, lobster heads, 1 cl cognac, 5 cl dry white wine, 3 peeled green onions, 3 tomatoes, 1 diced carrot, 1 clove of garlic, 20 g of tomato concentrate, 1 bouquet garni, salt and pepper. For the mashed potatoes: 800 g new potatoes, 1 dl fresh cream, 200 g soft butter, salt and pepper. For the sauce: 4 egg yolks, 200 g soft butter, 2 green onions, 3 cl dry white wine, 2 cl wine vinegar, whole grain pepper, salt, 1 twig tarragon. Bruno Oger, the chef emeritus of La Villa des Lys (Hôtel Majestic-Barrière), recommends Breton lobster with juice, fork-mashed new potatoes, béarnaise sauce with coral. Simply cut the lobster lengthwise and remove the claws and then the heads. The tails are cooked in a pan lined with olive oil until they turn a light colour Set aside in a casserole. The preparation of shellfish juice begins with the lobster heads still soaking in olive oil. Then they are flambéed in a cognac and deglazed with white wine. Add tomato pieces, green onions cut thickly, diced carrots, garlic, tomato concentrate and a bouquet garni. Add pepper and salt to season. Pour a half litre of water into the mixture let it cook for about half an hour. To finish off, filter through a fine china cap. The potatoes with their skin on are boiled in water, peeled and delicately mashed with a fork. Pour the fresh cream and add the soft butter. Enhancing the sauce ties in also with a clearly defined ritual: first, melt the butter. Reduce the white wine with vinegar, whole black pepper, green onions, and a twig of tarragon. Remove from the fire, then add the yolks and the coral of the lobster and whisk until sufficiently thick. Place the shellfish juice on the tails of the lobsters in the casserole. Let cook on a stove plate for about ten minutes, and then place the casserole on the centre of the table, with the sauce in a sauceboat and the mashed potatoes in a salad bowl. The elegance of this meal resides in this alliance of nobility and conviviality.
Tutti Fruti Nouvelle Vague Breton shortbread: 150 g butter, 130 g sugar, 4 g salt, 1 egg, 200 g flour, 10 g baking powder, (knead to 5mn, spread out to 6 mm thickness, pierce, make circles, bake at 150 ° for 1 hour). Mango jelly: 75 g sugar, 250 g mango pulp, 50 g lime juice, 50 g water, 25 g sugar, 4 g pectin PH (cook to boiling point 75 g de sugar, deglaze with the mago pulp, lime juice and water, sprinkle 25 g of sugar, and the pectin PH. Stir while cooking for 12 mn, drop in balls). Sheets: Spread out dough with a rolling pin lay on a plate covered with a thin layer of ice cream. Unfold the discs. Preserve them in a cool place for 2 h and bake at 160°. Chestnut syrup with vanilla peach brandy: 100 g chestnut syrup, 1/4 clove of vanilla, 20 g peach brandy, 8 g olive oil. Light cream: 100 g basic cream filling, 1/2 gelatine sheet, 150 g whipped cream. For dessert, François Raimbault of L’Oasis has conceived of Tutti Frutti Nouvelle Vague. The recipe begins by an elaborate concoction of a litre of syrup made of chestnuts and Williams peach brandy. Heat at 70° and then pour on cut peaches cut in narrow strips. After a few hours, drip dry with absorbent paper and sprinkle with semolina sugar. Arrange on a star shaped dish and cover with the chestnut and brandy peach juice and olive oil. Sprinkle with chestnut chips, julienne strips of orange and mint. Coat a Breton shortbread of mango jelly and place four rings of bananas flambéed in rum and four Imbert chestnuts. Add the vanilla cream. Put in a very fine leaf disc covered with ice cream. Finish with a crisp basic cream filling sprinkled with poppy seeds.
 
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